Co-sign this. That would be my first place to look, but inventory is definitely down lately.I've heard good things about the Callaway Pre-owned website.
Co-sign this. That would be my first place to look, but inventory is definitely down lately.I've heard good things about the Callaway Pre-owned website.
What are they? Most clubs that old don't have much value, but there are some cult classic models that are still sought after.I was cleaning the basement and found my old bag and clubs. Must be 25-30 years old. Worth taking to a reseller? Or just put a FREE sign on it?
Depends what they are. 25-year old Pings and Titleists might still have value.I was cleaning the basement and found my old bag and clubs. Must be 25-30 years old. Worth taking to a reseller? Or just put a FREE sign on it?
You’re not wrong. The only place you might see an improvement with new clubs are the driver and fairway wood. If you’re relatively accurate with your irons and wedges, no need to upgrade them. Old Ping putters are as good as anything new.This should be fun…
Driver: a 7 or 8 year old Taylor Made my buddy gave me a couple years ago. No idea what it is, but it has a white head, extra stiff shaft (he was embarrassed I was using Taylor Made driver from the early 2000s and just told me to take it)
3 wood: same vintage Taylor Made, same shaft
Irons (2-w): maxfli revolution stiff shaft. Bought off the shelf in 1998(?). Been using them since.
SW, GW: Titleist (56, 52). Won them at a charity event 10-12 years ago
putter: some old Ping putter I found in my dad’s garage a decade ago
I’m way into gear for lots of other stuff, but not golf, obviously. Friends keep telling me I need to get fitted and modern clubs make a huge difference, etc.
But they keep getting new shit and they’re still not getting better than me (I’m a 10, have been as low as 8, most friends are about the same). So until I decide to start playing more than 8-10 rounds a year, it feels like a waste of money.
Am I wrong? If I’m going to drop a grand or two on new clubs I feel like I’d be better off getting lessons or something (another thing I’ve never done). I’m not good enough for technology to make that much difference.
This may be my father’s fault, as he had me grow up playing with his grandfather’s Wilson Staff blades that must have been from the 60s (minus the 7 iron that my great-grandfather threw in a lake). After those things, anything feels good.
I mean, I'm accurate if I make a good swing. And super in-accurate if I don't. I have lost about a club of distance since my 20s, but I've always assumed it's not the hammer that makes a difference.You’re not wrong. The only place you might see an improvement with new clubs are the driver and fairway wood. If you’re relatively accurate with your irons and wedges, no need to upgrade them. Old Ping putters are as good as anything new.
Can you hit that 2 iron? If not you might try a hybrid or 5 wood.
To quote my instructor, “all your swings look the same.” Even if you feel like you’re doing something radically different, you probably aren’t. I’ve fought him on it and the video vindicates him every time.I mean, I'm accurate if I make a good swing. And super in-accurate if I don't. I have lost about a club of distance since my 20s, but I've always assumed it's not the hammer that makes a difference.
2 iron is great with a good lie. I used to use it off the tee a lot, during the decade or so where I didn't use a driver - I could draw or cut it 220-230 an hit the fairway like 75% of the time (and when I made a bad swing it was 10 yds in the rough, not 40 like the driver, which I could only slice). Probably would be better with a hybrid now. I'm certainly not good enough to be carrying a 2 iron around these days.
For those who have been fitted for irons - how flexible is the process? I'm weird in that I very often have a different swing every time I play, or even hole to hole. Since I don't play a lot, and I'm very much a feel person when it comes to sports, I will sometimes play half a round with an over the top, cut swing. Then I'll start push slicing and switch to a shallow, inside out. Leaving aside the "that's why you're not good at golf", would I need to "decide" on a swing in order to make a custom fitting worth it? I change the distance I stand from the ball, my stance, swing path - all kinds of things during a round, based on what's happening. So would lie angle or anything like that be useless for someone like me?
Driver is the only club where you can straight up buy a better game. They're incredibly good at retaining ball speed on off-center contact now compared to a decade ago. Finding something used from the past couple years would probably be a worthwhile upgrade over what you have now.This should be fun…
Minor quibble here. I doubt he'll see significant improvement unless going right on the Blade/Conventional -> GI -> SGI spectrum. If those Maxfli irons are what I'm thinking of they're basically generic 90s cavity backs. Not the hardest to hit but not loaded with technology either. There are still very nice sets of irons sold today that are probably harder to hit than those. People have been more willing to play more forgiving irons lately but a lot of the tech has been around for a long time.Iron technology has changed enough in the past 20 years that you should see some benefit. I’d be shocked if a modern iron doesn’t get you more distance and greater forgiveness on mishits.
Not 100% sure I agree with you here. I mean, yes, there are absolutely classic cavity backs and blades out there today that aren’t any easier to hit than 20 year old models, but that ignores a lot of development in the space between traditional game improvement models and traditional players irons. Is a Titleist 620CB going to be a huge leap forward? Not at all. But a T100 or a Mizuno HMB-20 or a Srixon ZX7 or an Apex Pro? Absolutely. There’s a reason we see more and more tour pros in these profiles and not blades.Driver is the only club where you can straight up buy a better game. They're incredibly good at retaining ball speed on off-center contact now compared to a decade ago. Finding something used from the past couple years would probably be a worthwhile upgrade over what you have now.
Otherwise, there's nothing wrong with with the rest of that equipment for you unless something is wildly off (e.g., irons way too short/long, too heavy, etc.). Though, I agree with dhappy... you should consider ditching the 2/3 irons in favor of a higher lofted fairway wood and/or hybrids.
Minor quibble here. I doubt he'll see significant improvement unless going right on the Blade/Conventional -> GI -> SGI spectrum. If those Maxfli irons are what I'm thinking of they're basically generic 90s cavity backs. Not the hardest to hit but not loaded with technology either. There are still very nice sets of irons sold today that are probably harder to hit than those. People have been more willing to play more forgiving irons lately but a lot of the tech has been around for a long time.
Sure, the latest GI and SGI irons are going to be easier to hit than 20-year-old cavity-backs, but the original question was "are new clubs worth it?" for someone who plays 8-10 rounds a year. I'd keep the old irons and splash on a new(ish) driver.Not 100% sure I agree with you here. I mean, yes, there are absolutely classic cavity backs and blades out there today that aren’t any easier to hit than 20 year old models, but that ignores a lot of development in the space between traditional game improvement models and traditional players irons. Is a Titleist 620CB going to be a huge leap forward? Not at all. But a T100 or a Mizuno HMB-20 or a Srixon ZX7 or an Apex Pro? Absolutely. There’s a reason we see more and more tour pros in these profiles and not blades.
Right, but it's not really that irons have gotten more forgiving, it's that manufacturers made more forgiving irons more palatable to elite players.Not 100% sure I agree with you here. I mean, yes, there are absolutely classic cavity backs and blades out there today that aren’t any easier to hit than 20 year old models, but that ignores a lot of development in the space between traditional game improvement models and traditional players irons. Is a Titleist 620CB going to be a huge leap forward? Not at all. But a T100 or a Mizuno HMB-20 or a Srixon ZX7 or an Apex Pro? Absolutely. There’s a reason we see more and more tour pros in these profiles and not blades.
If you want to frame it that way, sure. The irons they make the same way as the 20 year old ones haven’t gotten any better. But there are irons available today that are more forgiving than a traditional cavity back without the same trade off that used to be required to get that forgiveness in terms of workability, feel, and aesthetics.Right, but it's not really that irons have gotten more forgiving, it's that manufacturers made more forgiving irons more palatable to elite players.
So . . . worthless?Irons are Tommy Armour
Woods (driver and 3) are Tommy Aaron
i guess I just grabbed the first one on the rack, alphabetically.
Are the irons the 845s? Those had a cult following for a while in the early 90s and a long production run. Fred Couples and Davis Love III played them for a while IIRC. They might not be worthless but aren't worth much and there might only be a small handful of potential buyers. Later Tommy Armour irons were junk tier equipment IIRC.So . . . worthless?
Can confirm. I got my irons and 50 wedge through the website. They were shipped fast and the condition description was accurate.Co-sign this. That would be my first place to look, but inventory is definitely down lately.
I’d say that depends on how far you hit your driver and 5-iron. A 4-wood/7-wood combo should fill that gap. Add a 3-hybrid or 4-hybrid if you want/need a rescue clubDriver: TaylorMade M6 D-type, 10.5 degree, Project X Even Flow Max Carry 45
Irons: Callaway Rogue, 5-PW. 5 iron is 23 degrees, pitching wedge is 44 degrees
Wedge: Callaway Jaws MD5 50 degrees
Putter: Ping Pal 2
…
My questions are, isn't four clubs between my 10.5 degree driver and 23 degree five iron just too much clutter and not enough gapping?
Probably. I have a 60* in my bag but hardly ever use it. And when I do, there’s a 50-50 chance I’ll thin the ball over the green.I don't really hit my 60 and 64 degree wedges, though I'm not sure if that's because I just don't hit them well or don't have a great idea of how far they go so I default to other clubs. Are 50 and 56 degree wedges really all I need below my 44 degree pitching wedge?
The hybrid will probably have a longer shaft so it should carry a bit further. It should also fly higher and land softer.[/quote][/quote]Also they recommend a 20-23 degree hybrid when I already have a 5 iron at 23 degrees. Would I really see much of a difference between a hybrid and an iron at such similar lofts?
Titleist T400 irons PW is 38 degrees. So to get up to around 50 degrees they also have a W at 43 and W2 at 49. On one hand I guess whatever is stamped on the bottom doesn't really matter but on the other it's really silly.I would also say that the vast majority of players don't need more loft than, say, 58. Fill the now ridiculous gap between what is stamped a PW and your "gap" wedge.
I gotta be honest, I just replaced all my wedges with the new Cleveland RTX that only come in high/mid/low bounce and it was both much easier to pick a wedge and they've performed much better than Vokeys I've had in the past.Let me add one thing I really learned recently. I am a 12/13 so take this as you will. I think it is really important to think about your wedges bounce and grind more that the loft at our level. Unless you are hitting a lot of full strength wedge shots it's all about bounce. My short game dramatically improved when I put two wedges in my bag specifically designed for tight lie shots, sand, and heavy rough. You can always adjust the type of shot you hit distancewise but being able to stand over these shots with confidence about making soild contact is so valuable. Specifically, I hit my 56 out of greenside rough and sand and my 60 off of tight lies or if I try to make a hero flop shot (which I should never do as I am not a good enough player).
If you want to take it up a level, spend some time on Titleist Volkey's website and look at the difference in their grinds. Try to suit the correct one for the conditions you generally play (or end up in).
I've been playing a 2 wedge bag for several years: Vokey 54F and 58D. I basically default to the 54 unless there's a reason I need the 58. It makes it easy to choose a club for me. Both are on the higher bounce side of the spectrum.Let me add one thing I really learned recently. I am a 12/13 so take this as you will. I think it is really important to think about your wedges bounce and grind more that the loft at our level. Unless you are hitting a lot of full strength wedge shots it's all about bounce. My short game dramatically improved when I put two wedges in my bag specifically designed for tight lie shots, sand, and heavy rough. You can always adjust the type of shot you hit distancewise but being able to stand over these shots with confidence about making soild contact is so valuable. Specifically, I hit my 56 out of greenside rough and sand and my 60 off of tight lies or if I try to make a hero flop shot (which I should never do as I am not a good enough player).
If you want to take it up a level, spend some time on Titleist Volkey's website and look at the difference in their grinds. Try to suit the correct one for the conditions you generally play (or end up in).
They seem well regarded still despite Cleveland's brand kind of fading into second tier status. I think they're actually what the Srixon tour players are using since Srixon doesn't seem to have wedges in its lineup.I gotta be honest, I just replaced all my wedges with the new Cleveland RTX that only come in high/mid/low bounce and it was both much easier to pick a wedge and they've performed much better than Vokeys I've had in the past.
I did. My 8i shaft broke taking a swing on the range a month+ ago and when I got fitted for the Miuras the Srixons were a close second so figured I'd give them a go this time and didn't bother getting fitted again since I love the Project X shafts.I also love my ZX7’s. You came from Miuras right?
I was playing Bettinardi wedges before buying the Cleveland wedges. I loved those, but honestly, the price difference isn't worth it. You can only do so much with wedge technology and find similar performance with the Cleveland's (I actually probably like them a bit better).I've been playing a 2 wedge bag for several years: Vokey 54F and 58D. I basically default to the 54 unless there's a reason I need the 58. It makes it easy to choose a club for me. Both are on the higher bounce side of the spectrum.
I recall in the 00's lots of players were throwing low bounce wedges in their bags because of the tour trends at the time but they're prone to digging, especially into softer turf. Maybe in Texas you want that 60 degree wedge with 4 degrees of bounce but it might not be a great idea in New England.
FWIW, I used to carry a few different low bounce 60, and the Vokey 60M at one point, and really haven't noticed that with the 58D that I can't do anything I could with the 60s, just that the 58 is a bit less prone to terrible shots.
They seem well regarded still despite Cleveland's brand kind of fading into second tier status. I think they're actually what the Srixon tour players are using since Srixon doesn't seem to have wedges in its lineup.
All of the EOM seem to make good wedges though. Honestly, the secret sauce for me was realizing I needed slightly longer wedges (I have my 50-58 degree clubs all the same loft and lie angle). I'm 6'2" and standard length wedge lengths are just too short for me even if I play standard length irons.
Yep. Only clubs I’ve had that didn’t last a season in my bag. But it was more on me, not them. I got the 699 pro irons which is in that players distance category. Hollow bodied injected with foam to increase ball speed.I did. My 8i shaft broke taking a swing on the range a month+ ago and when I got fitted for the Miuras the Srixons were a close second so figured I'd give them a go this time and didn't bother getting fitted again since I love the Project X shafts.
Weren't you playing Sub 70 clubs?
PING CHIPR – THE WHITE BELT OF GOLF CLUBS?
Within the golf equipment space, there are agreed-upon taboos. White belts, iron covers—and chippers.
No serious golfer would ever … or would they?
https://mygolfspy.com/ping-chipr-just-in-time-for-the-open/
That’s for the other thread, “Golf Equipmemt, WTBI”So my trusty long time pull cart gave out yesterday. Might be fixable but I doubt it.
I'm looking at this as a replacement-any thoughts, good or bad, on this, or any other push/pull carts that you'd strongly recommend (good or bad).
View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DSVWG4Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?SubscriptionId=AKIAJO7E5OLQ67NVPFZA&ascsubtag=690140997-2-1947880732.1658495940&tag=brg_ana_10-20
I don't think you can go wrong with CaddyTek or Clicgear. They seem to get a lot of positive comments on the net.So my trusty long time pull cart gave out yesterday. Might be fixable but I doubt it.
I'm looking at this as a replacement-any thoughts, good or bad, on this, or any other push/pull carts that you'd strongly recommend (good or bad).
View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DSVWG4Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?SubscriptionId=AKIAJO7E5OLQ67NVPFZA&ascsubtag=690140997-2-1947880732.1658495940&tag=brg_ana_10-20
Rick Shiels tries the ChipR:Ping (re)introduces the ChipR:
https://ping.com/en-us/clubs/wedges/chipr
Cleveland’s Smart Sole chipper looks okay too.Rick Shiels tries the ChipR:
One point he makes that I agree with: since it's a Ping product it actually looks good, unlike other chippers that tend to look like cheaply made garbage.
Titleist does not miss right nowBeen dealing with an issue for a while finding the right club between my 3w (250) and my 4i (210). My 220-225 max 4 hybrid left too big a gap.
Just swapped from the Titleist H1 4 hybrid to a T200 2 iron with a HZRDUS smoke (black) shaft - and man, does this thing jump when it's hit right. I've been teeing it too high on occasion as I've been getting used to it, leading to some horrendous sounding 80-90% distance shots that stayed relatively straight. It plays from all lies, great punch out / utility club as well - could not be happier with it.
As a rep, I am glad to hear that!Titleist does not miss right now
Another perspective on the ChipR (and the Smart Sole is referenced in this video too):Cleveland’s Smart Sole chipper looks okay too.
I really liked the TS2 hybrid when I hit it a few weeks ago. Just the right balance between size/forgiveness and not being too clunky like some hybrids.Titleist does not miss right now