128 is probably enough unless you decide you definitely want to set up Bootcamp to dual boot Windows.If I do go mac book pro, is there any reason to go with the bigger hard drive? Seems like the price goes up a lot when you go from 128 GB to 256, and I already have an external HD with plenty of storage
Well, considering your budget, you'll have no problem finding a solution, except I'm 95% sure nothing that meets those specs will actually run 4 hrs on battery (no matter what it claims).Starting a new job in a month and have been using my current work laptop for everything, so I'm gonna take the plunge and buy an at-home unit. Criteria I'm looking for:
>16 GB RAM
>1 TB Hard Drive
15.6" display or below
>4 hours battery on low performance
NVidia GTX 960M as baseline video card
I'll be using a dock at home with a monitor/keyboard/mouse... mainly looking at playing CS:GO, Football Manager 16, OotP, etc. Nothing super graphics-intensive but I'm looking for at least 4-5 years of performance.
Budget including monitor/keybord/mouse/dock purchases is around $1.8k. Seeing some laptops close on these for $1.2-$1.3k but wondering if anyone's had good experiences in this wheelhouse.
How much do you value your marriage? I am not a Apple guy by any stretch of the imagination but I suspect that your transitioning to Apple will be better for your relationship than she transitioning to PC?
These guys have bingo.You haven't told us what the rationale is for wanting to go to one laptop for the two of you. Why not just stick with two and upgrade each when it's necessary?
Looks like this one may actually last that long, granted it's a user review so taking it with a big grain of salt (~5 hours):Well, considering your budget, you'll have no problem finding a solution, except I'm 95% sure nothing that meets those specs will actually run 4 hrs on battery (no matter what it claims).
Forget that, here's the Asus machine you should get (it's only sliiiiiightly outside your budget):Looks like this one may actually last that long, granted it's a user review so taking it with a big grain of salt (~5 hours):
Keep in mind that you're shopping for gaming laptops here, not necessarily "work" computers. But it sounds like you plan on keeping it mostly at home, in which case, what you're looking at is fine. These gaming laptops are bulky and on the heavy side, although much lighter and more compact than they used to be even just a few years ago. They make excellent desktop replacements due to their horsepower and specs, and as an added bonus they are fairly portable.Looks like this one may actually last that long, granted it's a user review so taking it with a big grain of salt (~5 hours):
For the price I'm digging that one... for a couple hundred more, this looks to be pretty high end:
Pretty much comes down to getting one with SSD vs. adding it later if needed.
That brand and it's relative lack of history / reviews would make me nervous. Consider getting an extended warranty plan (I'd recommend that anyway), and give it a good test run before the return period expires. But yeah, t looks damn good on paper!This is all unbelievably helpful, thank you - will definitely look into a model where I can either boot from the existing SSD or add one myself.
In that vein, this one looks pretty awesome & ticks all the boxes... I'm willing to give a bit on the HD space as I can always store stuff on my external:
Thanks again for all the help & advice, it's been invaluable - I just pulled the trigger on this with a 250 GB M.2 SSD.That brand and it's relative lack of history / reviews would make me nervous. Consider getting an extended warranty plan (I'd recommend that anyway), and give it a good test run before the return period expires. But yeah, t looks damn good on paper!
Note, that the SSD will be your traditional SATA interface, not M.2 PCIe, as you could get with the ASUS models, but if you don't have an M.2 today, then you won't miss the difference...going from mechanical HDD to any SSD is a humongous upgrade.
Ouch...I wish you had checked back with me before purchasing, since I've been through all this pain recently.
I was looking at more recent posts for you, and I might be wrong about the M.2 SATA vs. AHCI thing. It appears that there are slightly different models of the GL552, so you might luck out and get a model that expects the SATA interface your ordered.It appears my reading comprehension have deteriorated... haha, it's all good, that isn't a deal-breaker for me if I can't add an SSD, going from a home laptop purchased in 2008 to this should be a nice upgrade.
I figure ~$85 for a 250 GB M.2 SSD Samsung is a small enough investment that it's no big shakes if it doesn't work out, and I should be able to resell that. Just wish Amazon wouldn't display that alongside the GL552 as a 'users also frequently purchased' item.
Ah awesome, thanks - it says this in the description as well:I was looking at more recent posts for you, and I might be wrong about the M.2 SATA vs. AHCI thing. It appears that there are slightly different models of the GL552, so you might luck out and get a model that expects the SATA interface your ordered.
Good luck!
The slide-off upgrade panel offers instant access, fit an M.2 SSD, a bigger hard drive or upgrade memory.
M.2 is just the form factor. Within the category of M.2, you have a variety of different interfaces with different keys. "M.2" is not enough information to determine which SSD is compatible.Ah awesome, thanks - it says this in the description as well:
It will last literally twice as long, assuming no spills. My MacBook Pro is from 2010 and still entirely viable. The Dell doesn't have a chance at that kind of longevity.My wife does know how to use a pc so I'm leaning Dell Inspiron 15 7000 Intel 6th gen. 15" screen, good memory, well reviewed and about $500 cheaper than a 13" Mac Pro.
It is true my wife would prefer a Mac (and I'm curious myself) but I just can't bring myself to spend 500 more for a smaller screen and less memory.
Am I missing anything here? If one of you tells me the Mac will last many more years or have fewer issues, I'd have to think about it.
M.2 is a 'standard' like the DB25 connector was...it's a complete mess...the standard is a blend of physical and electronic specs and half of the standard looks like it will never receive any meaningful implementations. My Thinkpad E531 uses one. Lenovo has already abandoned their use in most of their laptops. When they did use them it was M.2 2242 models (the 22 refers to the width of the module...always 22mm, the lengths range from 42mm to 80mm) which are the smallest and create a serious problem fitting 256 Gig onto such a small formfactor. This required memory on both sides of the tiny board, Lenovo placed it in a tiny compartment with virtually no ventilation and there are more than a few reports that 256 Gig models used in this situation have cooked themselves to death. I'm running a 120 Gig MyDigital model, so far without issues. So far M.2 has largely been a deserved flop.M.2 is just the form factor. Within the category of M.2, you have a variety of different interfaces with different keys. "M.2" is not enough information to determine which SSD is compatible.
Thank you. I am expecting it any day now and hopefully everything is going to be alright.I have a Samsung Series 9 from 2012, the predecessor of the Ativ 9. I've loved my Samsung, including build quality and performance. I travel with it every day, and it's been bullet-proof for me. I don't know if manufacturing or components have substantively changed since I bought mine, but I would recommend Samsung generally. (Battery performance is substantially less than an Apple though -- just depends on if the price difference is worth it.)
We're you using an IPS display prior? IPS is a must for eye strain reduction. I'm not sure ultra high pixel counts are too. I could be wrong.1080p on 21" is still fairly low DPI by today's standards (especially for mobile devices). I've only been using a MacBook Pro for the last few years, but if I were to buy a desktop display I'd want a 24" 4K display to run at HiDPI.
I was pleasantly surprised when I got the MBP with the "Retina Display" that it significantly reduced my eye strain when I use the laptop for ~6 hour sessions.
My 21 inch monitor is an IPS and it gave me enormous eye strain. I ve toyed with the settings for 10 days now and may be just may be it's gotten better since I lowered the level of blues. It's my understanding that IPS tends to have a blue hue.We're you using an IPS display prior? IPS is a must for eye strain reduction. I'm not sure ultra high pixel counts are too. I could be wrong.
Yeah, I was very resistant to change, because I don't think I need a larger size monitor and also because many windows programs don't deal well with high DPI settings. One thing that surprises me is this: Companies tend to push large monitors while supplying small laptops with insane hi res screens. And yet you cannot really find many options for hi res monitors for sizes bellow 21 inches. I guess there's more money in them for larger monitors. I would have said that that's where the market is, but most people still have monitors smaller than 24-21 inches.1080p on 21" is still fairly low DPI by today's standards (especially for mobile devices). I've only been using a MacBook Pro for the last few years, but if I were to buy a desktop display I'd want a 24" 4K display to run at HiDPI.
I was pleasantly surprised when I got the MBP with the "Retina Display" that it significantly reduced my eye strain when I use the laptop for ~6 hour sessions.
If you're running any version of Windows, search on cleartype (it varies where they bury this routine in 7, 8 or 10) and run the cleartype adjustment routine which can improve the clarity of how your monitor renders text. This can make a big difference.My 21 inch monitor is an IPS and it gave me enormous eye strain. I ve toyed with the settings for 10 days now and may be just may be it's gotten better since I lowered the level of blues. It's my understanding that IPS tends to have a blue hue.
If you get a machine with 8.1 you then have the choice to get or avoid 10, if you get something with 10 you have no choice. Not only do you have months to decide, but I assure you, if you want 10, MS will start nagging you to upgrade within days of your first boot up. What downside makes you apprehensive about getting 10 via the upgrade route ? Anything at the Outlet will be fully compatible with 10, no worries there.Am I better off buying a Windows 8.1 machine and upgrading to Windows 10 or just get one that starts out as a Windows 10 machine? I'd rather not do the upgrade if I can avoid it and there doesn't seem to be a great selection on the Lenovo Outlet of Windows 10 machines.
Just concerned about screwing up the upgrade on a new computer. I've been a Windows 7 guy for a long time and resisted going to 8, so I figured I could just jump to 10 seamlessly and that might be more advantageous. I don't know if it's smart to skip 8 completely so I don't have to deal with 2 different new OS.If you get a machine with 8.1 you then have the choice to get or avoid 10, if you get something with 10 you have no choice. Not only do you have months to decide, but I assure you, if you want 10, MS will start nagging you to upgrade within days of your first boot up. What downside makes you apprehensive about getting 10 via the upgrade route ? Anything at the Outlet will be fully compatible with 10, no worries there.
No difference jumping from 7 or 8.1 to 10. If you do it immediately after you get something new, especially if before you load a ton of programs, the resulting 10 Registry will be indistinguishable from a 'clean' install. Keep the following in mind: everyone who is getting a 'free' 10 is doing an upgrade from 7 or 8. There is a complete version of Classic Shell for 10 which will allow you to make 10 very close to whatever look and style and features of 7 you may be more comfortable with. If you don't care that you pretty much will not be able to easily control updates and being dragged into whatever future MS dictates, the current big drawback is that the native browser Edge is barely half complete, still has no addons available and things that most people consider essential are unlikely to be here before the end of the year...essentially install something else you like/use for now. I prefer Palemoon, a fork and evolution of what Firefox was before it decided to become a Chrome clone. Alternatively, if you are OK with a Chrome (webkit engine) browser, the latest version of Opera is an excellent choice: it is disconnected from Google, does not data mine and track everything you do, is compatible with all Chrome addons and also supports it's own addons and allows somewhat more customization than Chrome.Just concerned about screwing up the upgrade on a new computer. I've been a Windows 7 guy for a long time and resisted going to 8, so I figured I could just jump to 10 seamlessly and that might be more advantageous. I don't know if it's smart to skip 8 completely so I don't have to deal with 2 different new OS.